Unstoppable Ascent: Sarbaz Khan Becomes First Pakistani to Conquer All 14 ‘Death Zone’ Peaks Without Supplemental Oxygen
In a groundbreaking moment that has etched his name into the annals of mountaineering history, Sarbaz Khan, a young and fearless climber from Pakistan, has become the first Pakistani ever to summit all 14 of the world’s highest peaks — each towering above 8,000 meters — without the use of bottled oxygen. This formidable feat, known in the climbing community as one of the ultimate tests of human endurance and willpower, places Shehroze among the most elite mountaineers on the planet.
On a cold and unforgiving morning,Sarbaz Khanreached the summit of Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, standing tall at a punishing altitude of 8,586 meters. In doing so, he completed his personal quest to climb all of the “eight-thousanders” without the use of supplemental oxygen — a milestone that only a handful of climbers globally have ever achieved.
What makes this feat even more extraordinary is not just the extreme altitude, but the way he did it — climbing each peak on sheer grit, natural endurance, and mental resilience, without relying on bottled oxygen, even in the perilous “death zone”, where oxygen levels drop so low that the human body begins to deteriorate rapidly.
Rewriting the Record Books
Sarbaz Khan had previously climbed all 14 eight-thousanders over the past few years, a remarkable accomplishment in itself. However, two of those peaks — Annapurna and Kanchenjunga — were originally summited with the assistance of bottled oxygen. For many, that would have been enough. But Shehroze was not content with a partial conquest.
Driven by a burning ambition to do it the hard way, the pure way — the way only a select few mountaineers dare attempt — he returned to Annapurna and Kanchenjunga in 2024 to climb them again, this time without oxygen.
And now, after conquering Kanchenjunga without oxygen, he has achieved what no other Pakistani has done before: Summiting all 14 of the world’s tallest mountains without any supplemental oxygen — a testament to his unmatched stamina, relentless determination, and undying love for the mountains.
The Significance of a No-Oxygen Climb
To the uninitiated, climbing an 8,000-meter mountain might seem like just a physical feat. But for mountaineers, doing so without supplemental oxygen is in a completely different league.
Above 8,000 meters lies what climbers call the “death zone” — an altitude so high that human life cannot be sustained for long. At these elevations, oxygen levels are only about a third of what they are at sea level. Every breath is a struggle, decision-making slows, and the body begins to break down. Many experienced climbers have perished in this zone, even with oxygen support.
By choosing to go without bottled oxygen, Sarbaz Khan took on a significantly higher level of risk and difficulty. It’s a choice that demands supreme physical fitness, disciplined acclimatization, and an ironclad mindset. It also reflects his respect for the purest traditions of alpinism — climbing mountains on their own terms, and without artificial aids.
The Final Summit: Kanchenjunga
The culmination of Sarbaz Khan’s no-oxygen journey came with his triumphant return to Kanchenjunga, a treacherous peak known for its unpredictable weather, steep icy slopes, and technical challenges. Standing at 8,586 meters, it’s the world’s third-highest mountain and arguably one of the most dangerous.
On this ascent, Sarbaz Khan faced bitter cold, brutal winds, and a mental test of perseverance. Climbing without bottled oxygen meant he had to move slowly and deliberately, ensuring he didn’t overexert himself in the thin air. Each step became a battle — against gravity, against fatigue, and against the limits of human capability.
When he reached the summit, there was no dramatic celebration — just the quiet, overwhelming realization that he had completed something almost superhuman. He had not just conquered a mountain, he had conquered every limit his body and mind tried to impose on him.
A Moment of National Pride
This achievement has elevated Sarbaz Khan to a legendary status in the world of adventure sports, not just in Pakistan but globally. For a nation that has often been underrepresented in the world of high-altitude climbing, Shehroze’s triumph is a beacon of inspiration and a source of immense national pride.
He now joins an elite global fraternity of climbers — fewer than 50 individuals — who have ever climbed all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen. Among those, even fewer accomplished the task at such a young age and in such a short span of time.
With this milestone, Sarbaz Khan has placed Pakistan on the global mountaineering map, standing shoulder to shoulder with legends from Nepal, Italy, Spain, and South Korea who have previously completed the same feat.
Beyond the Peaks: Inspiring the Next Generation
Sarbaz Khan’s journey is not just about mountains. It’s about dreaming big and pushing boundaries. It’s about proving that with enough heart, courage, and relentless determination, nothing is out of reach — even the sky.
As a young man who started climbing local peaks in northern Pakistan, Sarbaz Khan has come a long way. His achievements have already inspired countless young Pakistanis to explore outdoor sports, pursue their passions, and believe in their potential.
In interviews, Sarbaz Khan has often spoken about the importance of representing Pakistan on the world stage and promoting a positive image of his country through sports. He also emphasizes the need for more institutional support for mountaineers in Pakistan, many of whom have the talent but lack the resources to reach international platforms.
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A Future Full of Possibility
With this extraordinary milestone behind him, Sarbaz Khan is far from done. In his own words, this achievement is not an ending — it’s a new beginning. He dreams of mentoring future climbers, raising awareness about mountain conservation, and establishing training centers to nurture Pakistan’s next generation of adventurers.
In the high-stakes world of mountaineering, where nature is both breathtaking and brutal, Sarbaz Khan has proven that greatness is not measured by the heights we reach, but by the challenges we dare to face and the legacy we leave behind.
Sarbaz Khan’s triumphant no-oxygen conquest of the world’s 14 highest peaks is more than a personal victory — it is a towering symbol of human willpower, national pride, and the limitless possibilities that await those who refuse to give up.
